First, grab a long piece of wood, and chop it in half (13 cm wide is a good place to start and at least 15 cm long after cutting , youll need plenty of clamping real estate). Pine is a good choice to start with, because it has a high mash factor, which means its a little more forgiving on fit than say, oak. Mark each piece with an F.
If you have a marking device, measure the length of the tailboard (as shown below), then scribe the baseline of your dovetails onto both sides of the pin board. And if you dont have a marking gauge, measure the width and scribe your baseline with a knife against a straightedge.
Take your pin board, and place it in your vise. Keep the outside facing away from you. Following Glens method, you mark and cut the pins first, which makes it easy to mark the tails later on (well cover that in Part 2).
Your dovetail marking gauge (Glen recommends a 12?) on the face. You can use any angle, but a 12 is the best. Then, place your dovetail marking gauge about 1/10 cm from the right edge and mark the half-pin on that side.
You now need to decide the width of each pin and tail. If youre working with a 13 cm-wide board Glen suggests three tail areas (two would be too easy!). Divide the tail area (the area between the lines) into 3 sections. Each section should be marked at the center to become the pin’s center. Dont worry about being too precise with the placement though , after all, if theyre perfectly spaced, people might not believe you cut the dovetails by hand!
Mark the pins with the dovetail gauge by moving 1/20 cm each direction from the marks.
Now transfer the lines down the face of the board to your scribe line using a combination square, as shown at right. You dont have to mark the lines on the other face of the board, but you may find it helpful, at least until you get a little sawing practice in. Clearly mark the waste areas with a solid X, so you can tell at a glance what material youre about to clean out.
Use your thumb to guide your saw. Place it just outside of the right corner of the left pin’s front. It is important to keep your line, but nothing else. This becomes easier as you practice.
The saw should be at a steep angle. You want to hit both the back edge as well as the scribe line simultaneously. After you have reached the baseline at the front, raise the saw and continue sawing until it is parallel to the ground on both sides. Go slowly and check your progress on the opposite side of the board (thats where the additional lines come in handy). Stop when you reach the baseline.
Continue to cut on the right side. Next, go on to the next. Now go back and do the left sides. And always remember to leave your line. Why do all one side first? This ensures that your saw angles stay the same for multiple cuts, and you don’t have to adjust them back and forth. It is more efficient and helps to build muscle memory.
Once you have all your pins cut, chop out the waste. Place the larger side of the waste (the tail sockets), face down on the workpiece. You may also want to place a few scrap pieces between the bench and the workpiece. Your chisel should be placed just in front of your baseline. The bevel side of the board should face the end. Angle the chisel slightly to undercut the joint.
Because of the slight angle, your first mallet strike will drive the chisel into your baseline, and define the back edge of the tail area. Now you are ready to pop the first bit of waste. Place your chisel, bevel side up, at the upper edge of the end-grain area youve just chopped, and tap sharply with your mallet. The chisel should be able to bite into the wood and lift up the scrap. Now go back to chiseling the face of the board, again angling it just a few degrees, and give it a few sharp whacks with your mallet. Next, remove any waste. Continue until youre about halfway through the board, then flip it over and repeat the process on the other face. This face is very important. It’s easy to miss a corner and remove waste.
Now your pin board is finished. Well move onto the tail board in the next installment.
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- Easy to Mark Out Accurate Dovetails.
- CNC Machined for Precision.
- 2Pcs Dovetail Marker Set, 4 Kinds of Proportion Marked For Hardwood or Softwood.
- 1:5, 1:6, 1:7, 1:8.
- 24-hour friendly customer service and email support. If you have any questions,...
- Easy to Mark Out Accurate Dovetails.
- CNC Machined for Precision.
- 2Pcs Dovetail Marker Set, 4 Kinds of Proportion Marked For Hardwood or Softwood.
- 1:5, 1:6, 1:7, 1:8.
- 24-hour friendly customer service and email support. If you have any questions,...
- Easy to Mark Out Accurate Dovetails.
- CNC Machined for Precision.
- 2Pcs Dovetail Marker Set, 4 Kinds of Proportion Marked For Hardwood or Softwood.
- 1:5, 1:6, 1:7, 1:8.
- Materiale: acciaio inox
- Ideale per principianti falegnami
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- 2 tipi di proporzione contrassegnata per legno duro o conifere
- Facile da usare per la lavorazione del legno
